Michel Grisard
Atypical, an aesthete, the pope of Mondeuse, passionate, a poet, a hellion: these but a few of the epithets dotting the articles about Michel Grisard. Moving forward, building, creating, innovating, sharing, are all verbs used by Michel Grisard throughout his career. He is the troublemaker of the Savoie wine industry. In 1982 he decided to leave his father’s vineyard, where he had been working along with his two brothers, in order to “turn Mondeuse into a great wine”. Working out of his old country, he then created the Domaine Prieuré Saint Christophe. Once unappreciated, Mondeuse is a cousin of Syrah and a local variety with a lot of character. It has now become the main red variety in Savoie.
In 1985, Michel began reconquering the beautiful Savoie slopes replanted with Altesse. This white wine is fermented, stirred and aged in casks. In 1991, the year of the Alberville Olympic Games, Michel introduced Mondeuse to the best restaurants in Paris. In 1994, he was won over after an encounter with biodynamic wines and winemakers. In 1999, his daring spirit caused him to restore an ancient vineyard, an abandoned terraced property complete with dry stone walls and cellars. The first vintages produced on this shale soil, are hinting at an exceptional potential: those are the wines of Domaine des Ardoisieres in Cevins. After refurbishing the image of Mondeuse and bringing the Savoie wines to “Haute Cuisine”, Michel is now successfully reconquering this exceptional vineyard.
Here’s what Jancis Robinson wrote about one of his wines.
Domaine Prieuré Saint Christophe 2004 Roussette de Savoie
Altesse (Roussette).
Michel Grisard is the owner of the domaine, at Fréterive in the French Alps. On this evidence it’s a real pity Altesse isn’t better known and more widely grown. Pale silver flecked with lime, this has a super aromatic nose – very leesy, showing an attractive yeasty, spicy and nutty quality. This has had 8-9 months of oak ageing and there is clear evidence of burgundian battonage at work. Nutty flavours are reprised on the palate, with good fresh acidity and minerality, finishing gently creamy with hazelnuts to the fore. Very elegant and with lots of character. This wine is said to age like fine white Burgundy – this won’t peak for another 5 years and will easily hold for 10. I imagined drinking this with a freshly caught Trout. Probably even better with France’s related Ombre Chevalier. Excellent.
http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/20061220_3.html
Recent Comments